Sailing

July 3

Deadman's Bay
We started today like we always do. Wake up, brush our teeth, write in the journal then eat breakfast. I've found that I always time my journal perfectly, finishing up right before Ursula finishes making breakfast.

However today we didn't get into our swim suits, instead we got into our hiking clothes. We dress so that the sun can't touch us, covered head to toe. This keeps us from getting the usual look of the tourists down here, i.e. totally sunburnt. They even have a tree here that we saw on our hike called the Tourist Tree (also called the Turpentine Tree) that has a bark that is bright red and peeling. We have done pretty well so far, though we got a sunburn at Waterlemon Cay on the backs of our legs. I need some pants like our shirts we use in the water. Our shirts are made for snorkeling - well really I think they were made for surfing. They are ultra light weight and hug your skin like a wetsuit but instead of keeping you warm they have an SPF of 30 in the water.

Conrad
We were dropped off at the beach. Conrad, the old blind fisherman who lives there, helped pull our boat to shore. Conrad has a lot of character. He tries to sell conch shells to the few tourists that drop by. He also has a set of nets out in the water. Certain fish will sweep around the bay and get trapped in them. We walked past his house and over the ridge to the bay. Deadman's Bay is very pretty and at this hour the only people there were the workers from the resort cleaning up and getting ready for the day. This bay has been planted in coconuts all the way around.

We walked all the way to the other end of the beach where there is a helicopter pad then up the road to a lookout for Joel to take more view photos. I went ahead for a little while. Right in front of me a hawk landed and started eating a lizard. I waited there to show Joel and he got a few photos. Then it was back down. I walked slowly back collecting little bits of beach glass at the yachts club bay.

This morning was going to be a long sail straight into the wind. We were headed for the Baths on Virgin Gorda. The sail was quite pleasant, if bumpy. Theo says the channel is often like this, with the sea swells, current and wind all competing with one another and making it choppy. He doesn't like to sail in these conditions because it slows the boat down quite a bit. We were traveling at about 7 1/2 - 8 knots.

When we got to the Baths it was lunch time. Joel and I were starved so I ate too much. Then Joel decided not to bring the camera to the baths. I thought he ought to. I knew he would get in there and want to take photos, but he said he didn't want to drag the camera the whole way. So it stayed on the boat.

Barracuda
The baths were beautiful. Unfortunately when we first got in we were near a large and noisy family. We decided to come back to that pool when they were gone. We followed the path all the way through to Devil's Bay, which is quite beautiful. But we didn't stay; we went back exploring little offshoots that we hadn't seen before.

When we got back to the pretty pool the family was still there but at least they were leaving. After waiting a few minutes we had the place all to ourselves which was very nice.

Then it was back into the water to snorkel around outside the baths. The coral and fish were better elsewhere but the huge boulders made it beautiful. There was once spot that I loved. It was a little room made out of huge boulders. Two of the boulders were leaning against one another creating a passage way through to the next area. But it was too deep for me to go through.

Sailing
We did see two interesting things while snorkeling. The first was a worm of some kind. It reminded me of a centipede but with anemone like legs. Very interesting. The second was a large barracuda. We've seen lots of barracudas before but this one was great for photography. He was almost 3 feet long and just sat there. Most that I've seen are very curious so when you get close they turn towards you and then all you want to do is back up. Joel didn't have a camera so I stayed with the barracuda to mark its position while Joel swam really fast back to get a camera. Hopefully the photos will turn out well. The water was a little murky and the sun was not very strong, but since he was so large and let us get so close I think that they might.

We showered quickly off after getting back to the boat. Then motored off to a bay across from the Dogs (a group of islands).

We lazed about reading on the trampolines until dinner. The chicken and potatoes were yummy. Then we had pudding for dessert.

As soon as it got dark I went to our cabin to read. I like the light there for reading better than the one on deck.

I expected to have trouble sleeping since we had a group of boats near us all rafted together and they tend to be very noisy. And indeed I could hear them shouting to one another. The funny thing is that only the guys shout. I never hear any of the women. Anyway it really wasn't too bad since the wind was once again howling all night. Though when I got up in the morning it was dripping a bit and calm.

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Text and images © Copyright 2001 Joel and Daphne Gould. If there are any problems or questions email Daphne Gould.